Rug Cleaning Tips for Boston, MA Homeowners

Authentic Oriental rugs, by their very nature, have many variations because they are handmade rather than machine-made. This hand manufacture results in certain distinct, beautiful, and unique characteristics that set Oriental rugs apart from lesser reproductions. Rugs made by hand will always have certain variations in their surface coloration, the density of hand-knotting the pile, irregularities in shape along the edges or borders, and differences along the fringes or fringe ends.

One of the most common and typical characteristics of a real Oriental rug, especially among older or “nomadic” rugs, is the beautiful color variation known in the trade as “abrash.”  The effect of abrash is to create or produce differing color patterns, colorations, various shades, or hues. Gradations can often be seen within one color or color field in the design, such as the blues, reds, browns, or other colors. These variations may appear as bands or horizontal bars, but other shapes or sections of color variation are possible. Abrash coloration can vary from very subtle shade differences to distinct or even bold variations in certain colors of the rug.

Abrash results from differences in the dyeing process. Small quantities of skeins of pile yarn are dyed by hand before the rug is made. Each dye lot is hand-knotted into the rug, but when another dye lot is next used, some color variation is inevitable. Connoisseurs of antique and semi-antique Oriental rugs value the beauty and handmade appearance that is typical of abrash.

Sometimes, the variation in abrash color is covered over or obscured by soiling and compaction of the rug pile with use and wear. When the rug is cleaned, much surface soiling is removed, and the pile is groomed and made more erect. The truer and authentic pile coloration is now revealed, along with some abrash color variations that were there at the time of manufacture. In addition, there is a possibility that slight variations in pile direction or “shading” will also be seen after a thorough cleaning. One or both effects show up as color variations in the rug.

These distinct colorations are not defects at all but are characteristic of the many variables and dye lot differences that went into the original handmade rug. Indeed, some of the highest quality rug manufacturers spend a lot of time and money simulating this abrash in their machine-woven rug designs. Abrash is part of the beauty and distinctive natural appearance of handmade Oriental rugs and even of some machine-made rugs that try to reproduce real abrash.

Frosting is a condition of color change in textiles, most often occurring with fabrics and upholstery, and also results in appearance changes on rugs and carpeting. It is caused by preferential abrasion or wearing colored fibers and dye from the fabric or pile surface. This occurs primarily in those areas where use, wear, and abrasion are most concentrated. In upholstery, it could be on the front edges, side, and top of the seat cushion or arm areas. In draperies, it may be worn in sections at the hem. In carpets or rugs, it would be the wearing of a way of the surface pile that then reveals a slightly different or more original pile color underneath.

To textile scientists, this condition is known as "frosting," most likely because the resulting worn-away color is usually lighter, whiter, or "frosted" compared to the original. But it could result in other color changes as well. The analogy to frosting or whitening is best known and understood by analogy with denim jeans. These fabrics are typically woven with a thin blue warp yarn and a thicker white filling, weft, or woof yarn. The fabric is a 2/1 or uneven twill weave. When new, the blue warp tends to predominate on the surface and hide or cover the white filling. However, as wear progresses, the blue surface yarns are abraded and worn away, so the fabric becomes increasingly light white or "frosted" in these main wear areas. This same condition can occur with textile furnishings such as upholstery fabrics, where concentrated use and wear will abrade away the surface fibers and possibly also rub off some of the dyed fabric surfaces. This latter condition is known as "crocking." Whether the cause of color change is primarily abrasive wear, known as frosting, or rubbing off of the dye, known as crocking, the resultant color change is a permanent condition. It is not, however, the fault or doing of professional cleaning, as conditions creating the color change in the wear areas had already occurred.

There are times when this slowly developing color change or lightened areas of the fabric may seem more noticeable after a professional cleaning. But this is the result of removing surface soiling and greasy wear stains during cleaning, only to reveal the lightened areas of worn fabric underneath. The actual condition had existed, however, prior to the cleaning. Also, worn rug or carpet areas can reveal more of the backing or foundation underneath, at times seen as "grinning" up through the pile and showing a lighter or different color. So, too, can white knots, normally buried in the carpet pile or obscured by soil and dirt, become more noticeable after a thorough rug or carpet cleaning; these, too, are conditions of abrasive pile wear during ordinary use and not the result of rug or carpet cleaning. The professional cleaner may consider, at the wish of the customer, coloring in the white knots or worn pile areas to better match the surrounding pile color. It must be recognized, however, that this cosmetic coloring is temporary, and the underlying color changes will eventually return.

There can arise a potential problem of slowly developing acid degradation on fabrics, especially fabric coverings to upholstery, as well as draperies and textile wall coverings. This will slowly cause the fabric to appear darker or "burnt." The fabric and upholstery will become discolored to a tan, orange, or brown color over time. The problem may be seen as irregular areas, streaks, and blotches or an overall condition of discoloration with tan, yellow, orange, or brown staining. This can happen when the fabric or furniture is treated with an acid or acidic finish. During ordinary usage, the fabric is subsequently exposed to light, heat, and moisture from sources such as sunlight, heat registers, or radiators, and later wet cleaning. These conditions provide an environment that can contribute to acid-type burns on cotton and cellulose fabrics.

The most common fibers and fabrics affected are those containing cellulosic fibers— namely cotton, rayon, flax, or linen—and blends made from these fibers. One of the more common causes of acid burning is from applied finishes and acid salts used as fire and flame retardants (FR). These can often be found on natural fiber lining fabrics that cover cushions stuffed with goose down, feathers, or cotton batting. Over time, the acid can migrate out to the face yarns and discolor the upholstery fabric. Customary wet extraction cleaning, the most widely used cleaning process, can inadvertently accentuate prior damage caused by acid burning.

Acid-burning problems from fire and flame retardants have been occurring for more than ten years, although they are fairly rare. It appears to happen more so on higher quality, custom-made furniture and draperies. We believe the cause is the formation of oxycellulose and other tan-brown colored degradation products that can occur in cotton, rayon, and other cellulosic fabrics. It can take several years for this discoloration to fully occur. But not all flame retarded upholstery linings, interliners, cushion covers, or FR-treated draperies will cause this problem. Certain FR treatments and fabric finishes are more acidic than others, contributing to the development of acid-burn stains over time.

We do not know of any practical, definitive tests to foresee this problem prior to upholstery or drapery cleaning. Once these tan or brownish stains develop, they likely cannot, in our experience, be permanently eliminated. Oxidizing or reducing bleaches can temporarily improve the appearance by lightening some discoloration, but later (weeks or even months), the darker coloration or staining may return.

Dogs and cats may be our best friends, but not necessarily the best friends of our carpeting, draperies, and upholstery. Neglected animal stains have been a problem ever since people and animals bonded together in companionship.

Urine: There are two types of reactions that can take place between the chemicals in an animal's urine and those in the dyes and fibers of textile furnishings. The first type of reaction is immediately noticeable. Some dyes can change color as soon as urine comes in contact with them. Often the original color can be restored by immediate application of the standard ammonia solution.

The other reactions develop slowly over several days to several months and can result in permanent changes to the dyes and fiber. Not only can the dyes change, but some fibers may also become weakened or destroyed by the aged urine. The decomposing urine can also produce an objectionable odor. After cleaning, these areas became more obvious because the soils that hid the changed color and damaged fibers had been removed. Also, dyes weakened by urine can be removed or bleed during cleaning.

The next time you encounter an animal accident, immediately absorb as much liquid as possible. Treat the area with the standard detergent solution. Absorb this into white tissues or towels. Then, blot the area with the standard ammonia solution. Again, absorb this into toweling. Then, blot the area with the standard vinegar solution. Absorb the area with toweling until it is as dry as possible. Place several dry white terry cloths over the area and weigh down. Allow to dry for a minimum of six hours.

Feces: Pet feces tend to be easier to deal with than urine. Compact deposits can be quickly removed with a plastic bag. The surface should then be cleaned with the standard detergent solution and blotted dry. Rinse the area with water and blot again. Follow this treatment with a disinfectant recommended by your veterinarian.

Loose feces require the same clean-up procedure as described above for fresh urine removal. This should also be followed by the application of disinfectant. If your pet's food contains red dye to make it look meatier, this could leave a red discoloration at the site of the accident. A professional cleaner may be able to remove this.

A word of caution: some disinfectants may cause discoloration of textile furnishings.

General Information: If immediate action is taken to remove the animal stains, little or no change in color should occur, and that accident will not become apparent after your carpet or other textile has been professionally cleaned.

However, if the pet accident is forgotten or never discovered, it will return to haunt you. Dried urine will smell like strong ammonia when humidity is high or when the spot is rewetted. Feces and urine can contain harmful bacteria. A spot that is small on the surface of carpeting is often, many times, larger on the underside. The urine can damage both dyes and textile fibers, as described above. The change usually isn't noticed until the textile furnishing is cleaned. The damage caused by aged urine generally requires professional restoration, possibly color tinting, and sometimes removal of the offending carpet and cushion.

A professional cleaner has methods available to minimize the discoloration, disinfect the area and reduce the smell. It is often impossible, however, to completely restore the original appearance of a textile furnishing that has been damaged with aged pet urine.

Standard Solutions: Test these solutions first by applying a small amount in an inconspicuous area to determine its effect on the fiber and dye. Wait thirty minutes to an hour to see if any color changes or other problems may arise. 

• Standard white vinegar solution: one part white vinegar to two parts water.
• Standard ammonia solution: one tablespoon clear or sudsy, uncolored household ammonia in one cup of water.
• Standard detergent solution: one teaspoon of neutral white or colorless detergent in a cup of lukewarm water. Make sure the detergent is bleach-free.

The underside of your carpet has begun to separate from the top. This is a common occurrence with fairly new as well as older carpets, and especially those exposed to heavy wear or chemical action.

Your carpet is actually like a triple-decker sandwich. The topmost layer is the face yarn, which is held firmly in place because it is tufted or sewn into the middle layer or "primary" backing. The third layer of fabric, which rests against the floor, is called the "secondary" backing. The two backings are "glued" together by a thin layer of latex, a type of rubber cement.

Like most other rubber articles, latex will deteriorate with age. It becomes brittle and crumbly and loses the ability to hold the two backing layers firmly together. Heavy traffic, heat, as well as spills of various sorts, can also cause embrittlement and eventual weakening of the latex.

In a few cases, your carpet cleaner may be able to remove the old latex and reglue the two backings together. However, this could be a costly procedure because it is time-consuming and requires a great deal of skill.

If your carpet has begun to show backing separation, discuss it with our cleaning professional.

One of the most common problems in recent years has been the occurrence of color loss in carpet or upholstery resulting from a chemical named benzoyl peroxide. Benzoyl peroxide is contained in acne medications, other skin care products, dog mange medicine, and adhesive activators. It is a powerful bleaching agent and can discolor most dyes used on carpet, upholstery, or other textiles. The chemical discoloration appears as mysterious areas of bleached or lightened color in places where no apparent spillage has occurred. The bleached areas are often yellow, pink, orange, or off-white.

Widespread use of acne medications containing benzoyl peroxide has increased the problem. Although color loss can occur soon after the chemical touches the fibers, it often does not appear until later. The reaction is accelerated by high humidity, heat, and moisture. It is particularly common for these spills to appear after rainy weather or soon after a carpet or upholstery cleaning. The spillage of this medication may have been overlooked, only to have the forgotten spill reappear later! In addition to spillage of the medication, it is easy to unknowingly transfer the chemical onto the fibers from the hands or face. The medication does not readily wash off the skin, leaving enough behind to get onto carpet or upholstery, which causes color loss to appear without warning.

The bleached areas are permanently discolored, as the dye has been chemically damaged. These color changes that may become apparent after cleaning are sometimes blamed on the cleaner or cleaning process. However, the problem is due to the hidden benzoyl peroxide component of these acne medications when activated by heat and moisture.

Occasionally a brownish discoloration appears on a carpet or rug after it has been cleaned. One of the causes of this discoloration is a condition called cellulosic browning. In order for this discoloration to develop, several factors must be present: a cellulosic fiber, moisture, and slow drying. A high pH or shampoo residue may also contribute to its occurrence.

Cellulosic fibers are present in all jute carpet or rug backings and are a major source of cellulosic browning. The drying time following carpet cleaning depends on humidity; during rainy periods and summer months, the air contains more moisture, making it more difficult for the moisture in the carpet to evaporate.

The age of the carpet is also important. Jute backings deteriorate in time and undergo chemical changes. These changes produce brown or red colorants (lignin), which can wick up to the face yarns and appear on the surface of the carpet after cleaning. As the carpet dries, the brown or red color remains on the tips of the tufts.

Cellulosic browning of a similar type occurs when newspapers are left outdoors or gradually age indoors. Cellulosic materials in the paper turn brown and become brittle.

If browning does develop after cleaning, the discoloration can often be removed by professional carpet cleaners, as it is not always a permanent stain. In other cases, however, the discoloration cannot be completely removed. This arises more often with wool, sisal, or cotton carpets or when the carpet is old enough for advanced cellulosic fiber degradation to occur.

Gum removal is the bane of many carpet owners. A common removal method requires simply freezing the gum with an ice cube and then cracking off the residue with the back of a spoon. This works when the gum is only on the surface of the carpet. This method can also damage the carpet when the gum has been worked into the pile by breaking off fibers during gum removal. There are increasingly fewer solvents available to consumers, and professional methods often require strong solvents. The Association of Specialists in Cleaning and Restoration laboratory has documented a new, simple gum removal method for consumer and professional use. This method is most useful in situations where there is an occasional need to remove chewed gum.

Equipment Required: 

• Hand-held electric hair dryer 
• 6 to 12 squares (3"x3") of polyethylene film [e.g. cut from Zip-Loc® bags] 
• Extra Strength Deep-heating Rub containing 30% methyl salicylate (e.g., Extra Strength Ben Gay® or equivalent) 
• Clear or white mild dishwashing detergent (e.g., Ivory clear or equivalent) mixed one teaspoon in one cup of warm water
• White toweling and a sponge

Method: 

Have squares of polyethylene film nearby. Heat the gum residue with a hand-held hair dryer set on high for 30 to 90 seconds. Do not bring the hair dryer too close to the carpet because it is possible to melt some carpet fibers at high temperatures. Use the polyethylene squares to remove as much of the warm, softened gum as possible. The gum can be largely "picked off" the surface of the carpet. You will need to reheat the gum with the hair dryer, then pick and wipe it with a fresh square of film several times. This removes approximately 80% of the gum residue.

Rub one gram (1/2 teaspoon) of the extra strength deep heating rub evenly into the remaining gum residue. Heat the residue and deep-heating rub for 30 to 90 seconds with the hair dryer. Wipe and pick the area repeatedly with fresh polyethylene squares. This is useful for removing the remaining bits of gum from between the carpet pile yarns. Work the area in one direction, then in the opposite direction. Repeat if necessary.

Soak a sponge in a mild detergent solution and partially wring it out. Blot the area containing gum residue with this solution to remove the deep heating rub, then blot the area with clean, dry, white, toweling to remove the excess solution. Blot the area with plain water to remove the detergent, finally blot with dry toweling. Allow the carpet to dry in daylight if possible. The daylight helps to gently bleach any residual color, especially from green-colored gum.

In some cases, there may be a slight stickiness remaining from the gum residue after the carpet has dried. Carefully reheat the area again with a hair dryer and remove the last traces of gum with polyethylene film using the picking and wiping motion described previously. This method works very well on synthetic carpets.

Dyes are chemical compounds that are added to fibers to give them color. Sometimes these dyes react with chemicals or gases and changes in the color occur.

Fume fading is a reaction to gaseous pollutants, such as oxides of nitrogen or sulfur, in the air. It is a gradual change, accelerated by sunlight, heat, high humidity and the presence of acid on the fiber. The most common color changes are blues to pink, greens to yellow, and browns to red. The color change usually starts at the tips of the tufts and progresses toward the backing.

Ozone fading is caused by ozone gas in the atmosphere. It is also accelera1ed by high humidity and heat. Ozone is more prevalent around electrical motors, fluorescent lights and during lightning storms It is also formed by a reaction between light and pollutants in the air. Fibers subjected to ozone fading may lighten, turn white, or change from one color to another as in fume fading.

Some carpet fibers are dyed with Indicator Dyes. These dyes are sensitive to either acid or alkaline chemicals. An alkaline-sensitive dye will change color if exposed to ammonia or high alkaline (high pH) detergent. The color often can be changed back with dilute acetic acid (white vinegar). An acid sensitive dye will change color when exposed to vinegar or other mild acids (low pH) used in cleaning. The original color often can be restored with dilute ammonia. These color changes may not be permanent and often can be reversed. Other color changes due to strong chemicals (concentrated acids and bases or other reactive chemicals) are not a result of this "indicator effect" and may not be reversible.

Color changes that become apparent after cleaning are sometimes incorrectly blamed on the cleaner or cleaning process. In many cases, however, the color change is due to the ravages of time—the aging of dyes and fibers. Cleaning reveals the true color by removing dirt and loosened dyes.

Corn rowing is a condition that may appear on carpets before or after cleaning. It looks like distinct rows of tufts have fallen over, and the tips have become embedded in the carpet pile. It usually forms in a regular pattern, with every fourth or fifth row bending over, as might happen in a row of corn. The condition may develop in traffic lanes and under doors that scrape the carpet as they are opened and closed. It generally occurs perpendicular to the traffic direction.

Corn rowing appears most commonly on carpets made from fine, soft yarns with a fairly high, cut pile. In most cases, the overall density is not adequate to support the yarns and keep them upright. If there is too much space between the rows, the tufts may be bent over when they are walked on. Soft, fine yarns do not spring back as readily as other carpet yarns made from heavier and denser fibers.

Although cleaning the carpet may bring the problem to light, it is not the cause of the distorted pile surface per se. Corn rowing is simply an inherent characteristic of certain carpet constructions. Vacuuming and raking the carpet perpendicular to the traffic patterns may help in some cases. In extreme situations, we suggest you contact the manufacturer.

Custom-made rugs are increasingly popular each year. These rugs can be broadly classified under two categories: (a) hand-tufted or hooked and (b) assembled components. Assembled component rugs are manufactured by joining together different rug components, either tufted or woven. Components are joined using a hot melt adhesive tape by sewing or both. Custom rugs are available in a variety of contemporary designs, colors, and shapes. Although expensive, they are elegant, often exclusive, and provide an aura of opulence to the surrounding areas. Custom rugs, however, pose a challenge to carpet and rug cleaners. If proper cleaning procedures are not followed, problems can occur during cleaning. Let us examine some common problems with custom rugs and why they occur.

The two most common problems with custom rugs are shrinkage and rippling. Shrinkage and rippling occur, especially with assembled component custom rugs. In wet cleaning of any custom rug in which different components are joined together, there is always a propensity for differential shrinkage to take place. This is due to the inherent differences in the properties of the various components. The absence of preshrinking rug components prior to assembly also contributes to the problem. Further, the use of components that vary considerably in properties (tufted carpet assembled with a woven one, jute-backed carpet with an olefin-backed one) accentuates shrinkage and rippling even more.

In addition to the two problems described above, some custom rugs can soften upon application of heat or cleaning/spotting solvents; others may show drastic changes in size as well as texture distortion due to a loose construction. Dyes in custom rugs are often unstable, and color bleeding or color loss may result during normal cleaning. Due to the problems described above, special procedures are required for problem-free cleaning of custom rugs. It is critical that these special rugs be cleaned by knowledgeable, professional cleaners. We have the information and expertise to provide the best cleaning services for your custom rugs

Finally, it should be noted that more intense cleaning is usually required to restore the appearance of an excessively soiled rug. Such thorough cleaning procedures, however, have a higher propensity to cause shrinkage and rippling in custom rugs. Therefore, these rugs should be vacuumed regularly and cleaned more frequently than other rugs before they become excessively soiled. Consult us for further information and special services to preserve your expensive custom rugs.

Draperies and other window textiles are integral in enhancing a room's comfort, beauty, and luxury. A variety of fabrics are available to consumers for use as draperies. Although fabric selection, installation, and use conditions of draperies vary, all draperies, in general, are exposed to more destructive conditions than either wearing apparel, carpet, or upholstery. Draperies may receive direct or indirect exposure to the harmful rays of sunlight. Draperies also interact with the air circulation system of each room. As a result, they accumulate dust and dirt, as well as residues from cooking, smoking, heating, and other combustion. Higher humidity and temperature conditions tend to accelerate the damage caused by these destructive conditions. Therefore, various problems or changes in the draperies can occur as a result of use and exposure. Sometimes, the changes occur so gradually that they are not even perceived until after cleaning.

The most common drapery problem is yellowing or the development of yellow streaks. This occurs because of sunlight exposure, which can cause a yellowing of all fibers and the breakdown of optical brighteners, sizings, coatings, or finishes. Exposure to light can also reduce the strength of most fibers, sometimes after only a few months of use. The fiber content of the drapery fabric, its construction, and the additives and finishes used all influence the extent of sunlight damage. The weakened drapery and/or its lining may lack the strength to withstand the normal agitation involved in cleaning. Damage or shredding of draperies may appear after cleaning because of this loss of strength. There is no way to prevent light damage, but it can be reduced by having a good lining and rotating draperies to minimize direct sunlight exposure.

Yellowing and weakening of fibers can also be caused by environmental pollutants. When moisture in the air reacts with gases such as sulfur oxide or nitrogen oxide, weak sulfuric and nitric acids are formed. (This phenomenon can be referred to as "interior acid rain.") These acids attack drapery fibers, resulting in a loss of strength. Again, these effects may not become evident until after cleaning.

Color changes can also occur on draperies. Most dyes are affected or weakened by exposure to sunlight, atmospheric fumes, heat vents, pet residues, and the like. The weakened dyes may be removed or may run or bleed during cleaning.

Watermarks that appear as tan, yellow, or brown stains with heavy, irregular edges can also develop. These are a result of condensed moisture or rain transferred onto the draperies. The stain is due to either a weak dye or dirt in the fabric that is carried along with moisture as it wicks into the surrounding drapery fabric. It is not removed during dry cleaning, and even special spotting procedures are not always successful.

Shrinkage is another factor to consider. Some draperies can be observed to rise or lower with changes in humidity and temperature, but, in many cases, draperies can be resized to their original length.

Abrasion damage or worn-out areas can occur in draperies due to rubbing against the windowsill, cornice, and walls.

It is imperative to maintain them properly and have them cleaned regularly by reputable drapery cleaners to ensure that your draperies enjoy a maximum attractive life span.

Dye bleeding occurs when a colored fiber loses dye while wet. Uncolored or light-colored fiber or yarn may readily soak up fugitive (runaway) dyes from the darker fiber or yarn and become stained. This is most often seen in rugs and carpets where deeply dyed shades (for example, reds, blues, blacks) become fugitive and bleed into white or light-colored areas.

At least two conditions cause dye bleeding in colored fibers and yarns. The first is a defective dye or dyeing method. In such a case, the dye is either poorly selected or not properly handled during manufacture. The result is excess, unsecured, weak, and/or unstable dye. When a dye with poor stability or wash fastness is used, it may bleed during or after the first few cleanings. Likewise, when too much dye is used during manufacture, the excess adheres near the outside of the fiber, where it may readily wash away. Such defects in dye or dyeing method, at the time of manufacture, produce a textile product that is defective. Unfortunately for the consumer, these defects are not visible at the time of purchase.

In the second condition, dye is affected by use. Sunlight, atmospheric fumes, common chemicals, animal/pet residues, and so forth can weaken dyes over time. Once dyes are weakened, they may run or bleed with cleaning.

If pretesting or experience does not indicate a potential dye bleeding problem, the carpet cleaner should not be held liable for using what would otherwise be usual and customary cleaning procedures.

Older textiles and furnishings, especially those with cellulosic fiber such as cotton, flax (linen), jute, and similar fibers, can slowly degrade over time—sometimes years or decades. This lengthy, slow, but relentless deterioration and weakening of the fibers leads to eventual damage that can be seen as rips, tears, slits, or other structural damage in the fabric, carpet, or rug. It may take a few years for dry rot to manifest itself, or it can take decades, sometimes 40 to 50 years or more. This misnomer "dry rot" implies that the rotting or damage took place in the absence of moisture, whereas the damage was previously done during some conditions of wetness and mildew. It is understood that although presently "dry," there were actually preexisting conditions creating localized or smaller, concentrated areas of moisture buildup and damaging fungus growth therein. Once dry, the result is weakened fibers that can easily be broken and have a dry appearance, feel, or sound.

One condition that may have contributed to the onset of dry rot is prior uncontrolled wetness for long periods of time. Typical of this is the section of rug or carpet underneath plant pots, especially those planters made of clay that can transpire moisture and dampness into the carpet.

Another contributing factor may be residues in the base of the rug or carpet, such as those typical of animal pet stains. The buildup of salts from pet stains becomes hygroscopic and thus "moisture attracting" and keeps that section slightly damp for long periods of time. This condition in the textiles can thus cause moisture to be continually absorbed from the air and dampness to accumulate in the rug or fabric. The result is a slow but continual process of fungus growth and deterioration in the affected fibers or yarns of the rug or fabric. Rugs suffering from this condition may often smell during hot, humid weather. The most common type of damage from dry rot occurs in cellulosic fibers that often make up the foundation (or unitary backing) of rugs and some woven carpets. Although the rug pile or face yarns may be wool or another fiber, the backing or foundation fibers are actually more likely to be damaged. This ongoing condition of dry rot shows no outward or obvious signs while the damage is slowly accumulating. That is until the real damage is done and some normal moving or handling of the textile brings this latent condition to light.

Eventually, the affected yarns become stiffer and less supple, and eventually, brittleness sets in. This latter condition typically results in a subtle but distinctive "crackling" or "snapping" sound when, for example, an older rug or carpet is bent or rolled between the hands. Very fine quality, very dense or tightly knotted Oriental rugs are especially prone to such damage. In advanced conditions, merely lifting or moving the rug, textile, or fabric for cleaning or restoration can result in slits, rips, or tears in the foundation of the rug, carpet, tapestry, or fabric. It is not caused by customary and normal handling but by progressive "silent" damage that has occurred for years.

Unfortunately, there's no remedy to reverse this premature aging process in the affected fibers. The damage has already occurred due to preexisting conditions during use. The prescription is for a careful, thorough, professional cleaning and then any additional repairs needed to rebuild or reinforce the area of obvious damage. An antimicrobial/antifungal treatment to arrest some of the inherent conditions leading to damage may also be considered, but there's no assurance that the dry rot will not appear again in the same or other areas of your rug or textile in the future.

Flatwoven rugs, or "flatweaves," comprise numerous types of rugs with names such as Aubusson, Berber, dhurrie, drugget, kilim (kilim or kelim), Navajo, Rag Rug, Soumak, and Zapotec. These rugs are usually handwoven in a tapestry-like construction and have a flat surface without a distinctive raised pile. Many f1atwoven rugs are reversible. Currently, the most popular flatweave types are the dhurries with cotton or wool face yarns, kilims with wool face yarns, and rag rugs made of cotton or polyester fabric scraps. Dhurries are traditionally woven in India and Afghanistan; kilims are usually woven in Turkey but are also produced in other countries; and rag rugs are woven in many countries, including the United States.

These popular rugs provide excellent service, good value, and a pleasing appearance. Unfortunately, they also characteristically exhibit some problems when cleaned. The warp, or lengthwise yarns, in most flatwoven rugs, are generally cotton, although they may be wool, or occasionally silk, in older or finer rugs. These lengthwise yarns are hand-wound onto the loom before weaving. Irregularities in warp and weft positioning, tension, and weave structure appear in woven goods from even the best weavers. Additionally, there may be a range of variations in yarn twist and diameter. Cleaning reveals these inherent irregularities, which may or may not be visible before cleaning, in the form of curling, rippling, striping, or buckling in the rug. The sides or edges of these rugs are especially prone to curling.

Some f1atwoven rugs may have pattern markings placed on the warp by the weaver. These are usually marked with colored chalk or ink (red, blue, or black) to aid in the weaving. The markings are completely hidden as the rug is woven, but since the markings are seldom colorfast, they can bleed during cleaning. Since the cleaner has no way of predicting this inherent problem in advance, it is not the cleaner's fault.

The yarns on the surface of the rugs are sometimes bright, bold colors that may bleed when cleaned. Your professional Association of Specialists in Cleaning and Restoration Cleaners takes precautions to avoid this condition by using the most appropriate cleaning techniques. Despite the cautious handling of such rugs, there is some unavoidable risk of dye bleeding (or color run) after cleaning. It may not be possible to remove dyes that have bled. This problem is linked to poor dye selection and improper dyeing and handling during manufacture. In addition, most dyes are weakened by age, exposure to sunlight, atmospheric fumes, and pet urine and spills—all of which contribute to dye bleeding before, during, and after cleaning.

Many flatweaves have fringes that are continuations of the warp yarns, which are part of the rug's weave structure. All fringes fray and darken with age and dirt. Only a special chemical treatment can lighten the fringe color. Some cleaners prefer to leave the fringe "natural" looking.

Flatwoven rugs have limited cleanability because their flat surface readily shows soil, dirt, dust, spills, and stains. Many dhurrie rugs are designed in pastel colors and, hence, always appear more soiled than darker rugs. Flatwoven rugs, therefore, should be vacuumed regularly and cleaned more frequently than other rugs. Application of a fluorocarbon-based protective treatment may be advisable.

Sometimes, stains that have been hidden by soil are revealed after cleaning. These stains, which did not immediately cause discoloration, are often from spilled liquid containing colorless sugar that remained on the fibers. After long exposure to the air, they changed to insoluble brown stains. The stains may look like brownish discolorations, but often, they remain unnoticed because of the accumulated soil covering them. Some food and drink stains may inevitably turn even darker from the necessary drying action after a thorough cleaning.

Other kinds of stains can be caused by water soaking through and dissolving materials that cause browning, or dissolving fugitive dyes from the back of the carpet, rug, or upholstery. Because the fibers act as wicks, moisture will rise to the surface to evaporate, and discoloration will be left. Consumers who try to remove stains by using the wrong cleaning compounds and procedures may only make the stained areas more noticeable.

Professional cleaners use specialty cleaning and stain removal treatments to improve the appearance of forgotten drink spills—cola, coffee, tea, alcoholic beverages, soda, and others. Even with the best treatments, some colored residue or caramelized sugar stains resulting from the prior spillage may remain.

To lessen the possibility of stain damage, immediate action should be taken. Thoroughly absorb all moisture and, when possible, put a half-inch thickness of clean, white, absorbent material, such as paper or cloth toweling, over the area and weigh it down. Keep replacing with fresh absorbent material and repeat as needed. Then, call us to learn how to remove the spot safely before it becomes a permanent stain.

Your carpet, rug, or upholstery has had the best cleaning possible, done by skilled professional technicians using scientific methods recommended by the laboratory specialists of the Association of Specialists in Cleaning and Restoration.

Haitian cotton is an upholstery fabric made from 100% cotton grown in Haiti or India. The fibers are not thoroughly processed; as a result, bits of cotton seed, stems, and other plant components are in the yarn. These brown specks give the fabric a natural and rustic appearance. The yarns are thick, coarse, and usually off-white, cream, or tan in color. Occasionally, they are dyed with colors such as red or blue or maybe two-toned.

Haitian cotton fabrics are very susceptible to cellulosic browning. The spillage of plain tap water is sometimes enough to produce discoloration. The seed particles will also release a brown dye when wet, and this stain may be impossible to remove completely.

Complications of this type could normally be overcome by professional cleaners, who can use a variety of dry cleaning solvents to supplement water-based cleaning solutions. Unfortunately, the weave of Haitian cotton fabric is too loose to stand alone and must be manufactured with a latex backing to bind the yarns together into a fabric. This backing is softened or degraded by dry cleaning solvents, so texture changes, as well as color changes, may occur with any type of cleaning.

Haitian cotton cannot always be safely cleaned by normal upholstery cleaning methods. Some professional cleaners may have specialty cleaning chemicals and techniques designed for handling Haitian cotton and similar fabrics. These techniques require more time and expense. The degree of cleaning that is possible may still be less than is normally attainable, and some risk of staining may be present. We can advise you on how to clean your Haitian cotton upholstery.

Latex is an adhesive material applied by the carpet or rug manufacturer to anchor tufts to the back, give additional weight, and hold the backing onto the rug.

Latex starts to deteriorate as soon as it is put into service, similar to the rotting of automobile tires, elastic bands in garments, and rubber bands. The breakdown is caused by gases in the air, floor waxes, traffic, and sunlight.

A complex mixture, latex contains many chemicals affecting both its wear properties and cost. Chemicals are added to latex in an effort to retard this breakdown but cannot prevent it from taking place. Other chemicals are added to reduce cost. Such chemicals could be compared to gravel in a concrete mixture; they take up space but have no adhesive properties. Increased use of this material reduces the adhesive power of the latex, causing an earlier breakdown and, therefore, a separation of the backing from the rug.

The more expensive latex compounds will better withstand aging as well as cleaning, but even these will deteriorate eventually. The rate of deterioration is influenced by the ingredients of the rubber mixture as well as the conditions under which it is used. This breakdown will not take place evenly but will appear in smaller areas in the form of "bubbles" or separation. In many cases, it is more apparent along the rug edges exposed to gases in the air.