How many cookies did Andrew eat? ANdrew 8-8000
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Step One: Do Not Overwet
Use small amounts of the cleaning agents and blot frequently. Always blot. Do not rub or brush. Work from the outer edge of the spot towards the center to prevent rings. Beginning with step 1, treat the stained area with each spotting solution until the stain is removed. IT MAY NOT BE NECESSARY TO COMPLETE THE ENTIRE SERIES OF STEPS. The final step is always to gently rinse the areas with water, then absorb all the remaining moisture with absorbent towels.
Step Two: Be Patient
Some stains respond slowly. All spots and stains cannot be removed from every fabric due to differences in fibers, dyes, constructions, finishes, composition of the stain, and length of time the stain has remained on the article. Some stains require professional treatment. Spills and stains should be treated immediately. The longer a spot remains, the more difficult it will be to remove. Blot up spills with clean, white, absorbent materials (towels, napkins, tissues).
Step Three: Pre-Test
Find an inconspicuous area – such as under a sofa cushion, or on an area of carpet under or behind a piece of furniture. Apply several drops of solution on the article and rub gently with a clean, white towel. If color transfers to the cloth or a color change occurs, a professional cleaner should be consulted.
Cleaning Agents:
AMMONIA SOLUTION – Mix one tablespoon of clear household ammonia with one half-cup of water. BLEACH – Use hydrogen peroxide or sodium perborate, present in Snowy or Clorox II. Never use chlorine bleach. DETERGENT SOLUTION – Mix one teaspoonful of a colorless, mild detergent or dishwashing liquid in a cup of lukewarm water. DRYCLEANING SOLVENT – Volatile dry spotter or a commercial spotter such as Carbona, Energine, K2R. Use in small amounts; they can be harmful to sizings, backings or stuffing materials. Never use gasoline, lighter fluid or carbon tetrachloride. ENZYME DETERGENT – Mix a solution of enzyme detergent, following the directions on the label. Per Step One, do not soak or overwet. Allow the solution to remain on the stain for the recommended length of time before removing. (Professional cleaners may prefer to use digesters separate from detergents.) POG – Paint, oil and grease remover, available in hardware stores. VINEGAR SOLUTION – Mix one-third cup of white household vinegar with two-thirds cup of water. (Professional cleaners may use up to 28% acetic acid solution.)
When and Where to Use Cleaning Agents
There’s a whole world of potential stains out there – and an entire universe of cleaning agents that purport to clean them. Which cleaning agents work on what kind of stains? Should you take the kind of fabric into account? When should you consult a professional? Learn all of the above, and more, with our free rug cleaning guides.
Authentic Oriental rugs, by their very nature, have many variations because they are hand made rather than machine made. This hand manufacture results in certain distinct, beautiful and unique characteristics that set Oriental rugs apart from lesser reproductions. Rugs made by hand will always have certain variations in their surface coloration, density of hand knotting the pile, irregularities in shape along the edges or borders, and differences along the fringes or fringe ends.
One of the most common and typical characteristics of a real Oriental rug, and especially among older or “nomadic” rugs, is the beautiful color variation known in the trade as “abrash.” The effect of abrash is to create or produce differing color patterns, colorations, various shades or hues. Gradations can often be seen within one color or color field in the design, such as the blues, reds, browns or other colors. These variations may appear as bands or horizontal bars, but other shapes or sections of color variation are possible. Abrash coloration can vary from very subtle shade differences to distinct or even bold variations in certain colors of the rug.
Abrash results from differences in the dyeing process. Small quantities of skeins of pile yarn are dyed by hand before the rug is made. Each dye lot is hand knotted into the rug, but when another dye lot is next used, some color variation is inevitable. Connoisseurs of antique and semi-antique Oriental rugs value the beauty and handmade appearance that is typical of abrash.
Sometimes abrash color variation is covered over or obscured by soiling and compaction of the rug pile with use and wear. When the rug is cleaned, much surface soiling is removed and the pile is groomed and made more erect. The truer and authentic pile coloration is now revealed, along with some abrash color variations that were there at the time of manufacture. In addition, there is a possibility that slight variations in pile direction or “shading” will also be seen after a thorough cleaning. One or both of these effects show up as color variations in the rug.
These distinct colorations are not defects at all, but are characteristic of the many variables and dye lot differences that went into the original handmade rug. Indeed, some of the highest quality rug manufacturers spend a lot of time and money simulating this abrash in their machine woven rug designs. Abrash is part of the beauty and distinctive natural appearance of handmade Oriental rugs, and even of some machine made rugs that try to reproduce real abrash.
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Dogs and cats may be our best friends, but not necessarily the best friends of our carpeting, draperies and upholstery. Neglected animal stains have been a problem ever since people and animals bonded together in companionship.
Urine: There are two types of reactions that can take place between the chemicals in an animal’s urine and those in the dyes and fibers of textile furnishings. The first type of reaction is immediately noticeable. Some dyes can change color as soon as urine comes in contact with them. Often the original color can be restored by immediate application of the standard ammonia solution.
The other reactions develop slowly over several days to several months and can result in permanent changes to the dyes and fiber. Not only can the dyes change but some fibers may become weakened or destroyed by the aged urine. The decomposing urine can also produce an objectionable odor. After cleaning, these areas are more obvious because the soils that hid the changed color and damaged fibers have been removed. Also, dyes weakened by urine can be removed or bleed during cleaning.
The next time you encounter an animal accident, immediately absorb as much liquid as possible. Treat the area with the standard detergent solution. Absorb this into white tissues or toweling. Then blot the area with the standard ammonia solution. Again absorb this into toweling. Then blot the area with the standard vinegar solution. Absorb the area with toweling until it is as dry as possible. Place several dry white terry cloths over the area and weight down. Allow to dry a minimum of six hours.
Feces: Pet feces tend to be easier to deal with than urine. Compact deposits can be quickly removed with a plastic bag. The surface should then be cleaned with the standard detergent solution and blotted dry. Rinse the area with water and blot again. Follow this treatment with a disinfectant recommended by your veterinarian.
Loose feces require the same clean-up procedure as described above for fresh urine removal. This should also be followed with an application of disinfectant. If your pets’ food contains red dye to make it look meatier, this could leave a red discoloration at the site of the accident. A professional cleaner may be able to remove this.
A word of caution: some disinfectants may cause discoloration of textile furnishings.
General Information: If immediate action is taken to remove the animal stains, little or no change in color should occur and that accident will not become apparent after your carpet or other textile has been professionally cleaned.
However, if the pet accident is forgotten or never discovered, it will return to haunt you. Dried urine will smell like strong ammonia when humidity is high or when the spot is rewetted. Feces and urine can contain harmful bacteria. A spot that is small on the surface of carpeting is often many times larger on the underside. The urine can damage both dyes and textile fibers as described above. The change usually isn’t noticed until the textile furnishing is cleaned. The damage caused by aged urine generally requires professional restoration, possibly color tinting, and sometimes removal of the offending carpet and cushion.
A professional cleaner has methods available to minimize the discoloration, disinfect the area and reduce the smell. It is often impossible, however, to completely restore the original appearance of a textile furnishing that has been damaged with aged pet urine.
Standard Solutions: Test these solutions first by applying a small amount in an inconspicuous area to determine its effect on the fiber and dye. Wait thirty minutes to an hour to see if any color changes or other problems may arise.
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Standard white vinegar solution: one part white vinegar to two parts water.
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Standard ammonia solution: one tablespoon clear or sudsy, uncolored household ammonia in one cup of water.
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Standard detergent solution: one teaspoon neutral white or colorless detergent in a cup of lukewarm water. Make sure the detergent is bleach free.
Sewer backups show no concern for floor coverings—they contaminate Oriental rugs as thoroughly as bath mats. People intuitively understand that the dense structure of carpeting can provide a breeding ground for bacteria. This makes sewage and carpeting a troubling combination.
Not all backups are identical, of course. Sewer backups can range from clear water to raw sewage. Also, carpets vary in their construction and method of installation.
Can sewage-contaminated carpet be restored to its original wholesome state?
There are some germicidal treatments available to eliminate sewage-borne bacteria. When combined with proper cleaning techniques, these germicides may restore many carpets to safe and attractive use. To be effective, however, the germicidal and cleaning procedures should fully saturate the carpet. Unfortunately, treating the carpet surface alone will not provide adequate protection.
This is good news for Oriental rugs, area rugs and wall-to-wall carpet installed on tack strips. These can be treated in a rug-cleaning plant with excellent results. But it is bad news for direct glued-down carpet, carpet tiles and wide expanses of carpet, which do not lend themselves to in-plant treatment. Contaminated carpet cushion (padding) cannot be effectively treated and should be discarded.
What if the water was clean?
Even water that looks clean and clear can carry harmful bacteria. If it came out of a sewer, it should be presumed to be contaminated.
Saturation cleaning and germicidal treatment of carpeting are difficult to perform at the damage site. Both sides of the carpet must be cleaned and treated along with the floor and baseboards, all without cross-contamination. On-site treatment is most effective when just a portion of the carpet has been exposed to contaminants.
How can I be sure the treatment is effective?
The principal indicator of contaminated sewage is the presence of bacteria from the family E. coli. Germicides used after sewer backups should be designated to be effective against E. coli. Swab samples can be collected at the site and incubated in a growth medium to indicate whether wholesome conditions have been restored.
Economics also plays a part. The age, condition and replacement cost of the carpet will influence the cost-effectiveness of restoration. With so many factors to consider, the best assurance of satisfaction is to retain an experienced professional.
Yellowing occasionally appears after professional cleaning of light colored carpeting, rugs, upholstery, draperies or other textile furnishings. This discoloration occurs for a variety of reasons, and it is usually indicative of another preexisting problem. The yellowing is generally not noticeable until after the item is cleaned, either because the dirt is ‘hiding’ it or some latent problem is catalyzed by customary cleaning. This is not the fault of the cleaning process. The customer is often disappointed that the interior furnishing is clean but did not return to its new condition. Occasionally, the yellowing will be in one area but not in another, such as under furniture, or in front of a window where some other condition has initiated the yellowing, only to be exposed by the cleaning method.
One Common Reason for Yellowing:
Photo-Oxidation
Some fibers are prone to photo-oxidation due to normal exposure and use. With ordinary light, sunlight and atmospheric fumes, certain white fibers, especially when bleached or optically brightened, will eventually begin to yellow. Customary wet cleaning is sometimes enough to induce a yellow coloration in white or off-white colored wool that was previously damaged by light and atmospheric conditions.
Stain-Resistant Chemistries and Early Generation Nylon
On some stain-resistant finishes, silicone-based soil retardant finishes and early generation nylon, the manufacturing chemistries tend to yellow with age, exposure to UV light and/or cleaning with a high pH cleaner.
Specialty Finishes
Many textile finishes also yellow with age. These finishes can include: flameproofing, crease resistance, insecticides, anti-static and textile lubricants or softeners. All are used on textile furnishings.
Fluorescent Brightening Agents
Some fluorescent brightening agents (FBA) can yellow with age and exposure to UV light. These brighteners are found in many detergents and spot removers. FBAs are also used on some white colored textiles.
Anti-Oxidants
Anti-oxidants, such as BHT and formaldehyde, are found in carpet cushioning, some latex preparations, upholstery foam, in carpet backings and many other common construction materials. The anti-oxidants redeposit or wick up to the carpet face yarns or fabric surface and yellow on contact with oxygen.
Dyes
Light colors such as beige or tan are often composed of several dyes. Some of these dyestuffs can fade, altering the hue towards yellow.
Forgotten Spills
Long forgotten spills, stains and pet accidents also can yellow with age. Sugary drink stains and animal urine are examples.
Soils
Common soil and dirt from normal use can be yellow in coloration. Abrasive action on carpet fibers from normal soiling can also cause permanent discoloration.
Conclusions
There are many possibilities for yellowing. A yellow discoloration is more apparent when it occurs on a white or off-white background. A professional cleaner has several different techniques available that may reduce the effect of yellowing caused by many of these preexisting conditions. These include treatment with special yellow remover products, bleaches and adjusting the fiber’s pH to improve its appearance. Using professional chemicals, yellowing can be removed in some cases; in other cases, it can be lightened somewhat, but in many situations the yellow discoloration is permanent.
- Apply detergent solution and blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot frequently.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- Apply cool detergent solution, blot.
- Apply cool ammonia solution, blot.
- Apply enzyme detergent, blot.
- Rinse thoroughly with water, blot until dry.
- If stain remains, apply rust remover or oxalic acid solution.
Bleaching with 3-5% hydrogen peroxide may be necessary.
- Apply drycleaning solvent, blot.
- Apply detergent solution, blot until dry.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- Scrape off as much as possible with spatula or dull knife.
- Apply drycleaning solvent.
- Apply POG, blot.
- Apply drycleaning solvent, blot.
- Apply cool detergent solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Apply enzyme detergent, blot.
- If stain remains, bleach with 3-5% hydrogen peroxide or sodium perborate.
- Rinse thoroughly with water, blot until dry.
- Harden gum with an ice cube until it is brittle enough to scrape off with dull knife or spatula.
- Apply drycleaning solvent to remove remaining traces.
- Scrape off as much as possible with spatula or dull knife.
- Apply cool detergent solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Apply enzyme detergent, blot.
- Rinse thoroughly with water and blot until dry.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- Apply detergent solution, blot. (Use enzyme detergent if cream was present.)
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Apply enzyme detergent, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
* Ammonia will set stains on wool and silk but may help in removal from other fabrics.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Apply enzyme detergent, blot.
- Rinse thoroughly with water, blot until dry.
- Apply drycleaning solvent.
- Apply POG, blot.
- Apply drycleaning solvent, blot.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- Blot up as much as possible.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply cold ammonia solution, blot.
- If stain remains, apply enzyme detergent.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- Apply detergent solution, blotting frequently. A dried stain will probably spread when wet.
- Repeat step 1 until color is no longer transferred to the towel.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Rinse thoroughly with water and blot until dry.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- If stain remains, apply enzyme detergent, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- Apply drycleaning solvent.
- Apply POG, blot.
- Apply drycleaning solvent, blot.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Rinse with water and blot until dry.
* This stain is almost impossible to remove completely.
- Apply water, blot.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- If stain remains, heat the detergent solution slightly and repeat step 2.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- Apply amyl acetate, if available, to remove chlorophyll, blot.
- Apply enzyme detergent, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
* Bleaching (or professional stripping) may be necessary.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Apply drycleaning solvent.
- Apply POG, blot.
- Alternate steps 1 and 2 until stain is removed.
- If stain remains, apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
* Bleaching (or professional stripping) may be necessary.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Apply enzyme detergent, blot.
- Rinse thoroughly with water, blot until dry.
- Apply drycleaning solvent, blot.
- Apply drycleaning solvent.
- Apply POG, blot.
- Apply drycleaning solvent, blot.
- Apply amyl acetate if available, or acetone (except on acetate fibers).
- If stain remains, apply rust remover or oxalic acid solution.
- Bleaching (or professional stripping) may be necessary.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot.
- Apply enzyme detergent, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- Scrape off excess with spatula or dull knife.
- Apply POG, blot, making sure not to reapply onto fabric.
- Apply drycleaning solvent, blot.
- Apply detergent, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
*Try to avoid wetcleaning on wool. Use POG and drycleaning solvents as long as possible.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- May permanently damage fibers
- Apply enzyme detergent, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Rinse thoroughly with water, blot.
- Apply solution of oxidizing bleach (chlorine or perborate). Do not use chlorine bleach on wool or silk.
- Rinse thoroughly with water, blot until dry
- Apply cool detergent solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- Apply enzyme detergent, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- Apply drycleaning solvent, blot.
- Apply hot enzyme detergent solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Rinse thoroughly with water, blot until dry.
- Bush or scrape off as much as possible.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Rinse thoroughly with water, blot until dry.
If stain remains, apply POG and drycleaning solvent alternately, blot until dry.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Apply enzyme detergent, blot.
- If stain remains, rust remover (oxalic acid solution) or bleaching may be necessary.
*Do not use ammonia or alkalis
- Apply drycleaning solvent.
- Apply POG, blot.
- Apply amyl acetate if available, or nail polish remover – PRETEST FIRST.
- If stain remains, apply detergent solution, blot until dry.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- Apply drycleaning solvent.
- Apply POG, blot.
- Alternate drycleaning solvent and POG, blotting frequently.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- Apply drycleaning solvent.
- Apply POG, blot.
- Apply drycleaning solvent, blot.
- Alternate steps 2 and 3 until stain is removed.
- If stain persists, weight down the stain with towels dampened with drycleaning solvent for several hours to loosen, blot with solvent.
- Apply several drops of detergent solution and work into the stain, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Alternate steps 2, 3 and 6 until stain is removed.
- Rinse thoroughly with warm water, blot until dry.
- Apply drycleaning solvent.
- Apply POG, blot.
- Apply drycleaning solvent, blot.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- Apply POG, blot.
- Apply drycleaning solvent, blot.
- Roll the glue off if it has hardened sufficiently.
- Apply drycleaning solvent.
- Apply POG, blot.
- Apply drycleaning solvent, blot.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- Apply rust remover or warm oxalic acid solution.
- Allow to stand for 10-15 minutes.
- Repeat with hot solution.
- Rinse thoroughly with water, blot until dry.
- Apply drycleaning solvent.
- Apply POG, blot.
- Apply drycleaning solvent, blot.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Rinse thoroughly with water, blot until dry.
- If stain persists, bleaching (or professional stripping) may be necessary.
- Apply cold detergent solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- Apply drycleaning solvent, blot.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Rinse thoroughly with water, blot until dry.
- Scrape off as much as possible with spatula or dull knife.
- Apply drycleaning solvent.
- Apply POG, blot.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Rinse with water, blot until dry.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Rinse thoroughly with water, blot until dry.
- Blot up as much as possible if still wet.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Rinse thoroughly with water, blot until dry.
- If stain remains, apply rust remover or oxalic acid solution.
- Bleaching with 3-5% hydrogen peroxide or sodium perborate might be necessary.
*Urine stains may cause permanent dye removal from fibers.
- Blot up as much as possible.
- Apply enzyme detergent, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Rinse thoroughly with water, blot until dry.
- Apply detergent solution, blot.
- Apply vinegar solution, blot.
- Apply ammonia solution, blot.
- If necessary, bleach with 3-5% hydrogen peroxide or sodium perborate.
- Rinse thoroughly with water, blot until dry.
What should you know about the care and maintenance of your valuable Oriental rugs?
Haven’t you ever wondered which are the safe and effective stain removal products or cleaning methods for your prized Oriental rugs? Or how often the rugs should be professionally cleaned? Should you attempt a do-it-yourself, consumer cleaning method or leave this job to the rug experts?
Honest answers are available from trusted rug cleaning experts. We are here to help you. We can answer your questions, allay any undue concerns and do a first class professional cleaning for you.
Have you ever been told never to clean or even vacuum your Oriental rug; or never to use water for spot removal or cleaning of any rug? Or have you heard some “gospel” from the retailer, maybe an old wives’ tale about how to supposedly care for and maintain your beautiful Oriental rug? Or that cleaning will remove all of the wool fibers’ lanolin and natural lubricants or somehow damage the rug? In fact, long before you ever saw the rug, the original lanolin and natural fiber residues were removed. This occurs during wool fiber processing such as scouring, and again during dyeing of the pile fiber and yarns.
Did you know that regular professional cleaning can prolong the life and appearance of a valuable rug?
Proper cleaning will remove most embedded soils and stains, helping to return the rug to its prior luster, color and design clarity through an improvement in overall appearance and useful life of the rug.
And were you aware that a proper rug pad or cushion can add measurably to the safety, appearance and long life of your prized Oriental rugs? And that specially designed rug cushions are available to prevent rugs from slipping and sliding over your hard floors? And that special cushions are also available to minimize rug sliding and wrinkling when laid over wall-to-wall carpet? The appearance of the surface or top of your rug is aided tremendously by the pad underneath your rug.
What happens when your rug fringe begins to ravel and fray, especially as a result of periodic vacuuming? Can it be repaired or made to look better?
Yes, the rug ends and fringes can be restored or repaired, or a new fringe can be sewn onto the top of the original fringe, thus improving the rug’s appearance while preserving its original integrity.
You’ve paid handsomely for a beautiful Oriental rug in silk pile, but is the pile fiber really silk? And is it all silk?
Fibers such as rayon, acetate, mercerized cotton or others, and so called “art silk” can be made to resemble silk, but are not silk at all. Sometimes they use a less expensive or inferior substitute to make the pile and the real fiber content may be obscured. How can you tell or confirm that your expensive Oriental rug is really silk? Or you may be considering the purchase of a “silk” rug and want assurance that you are really getting real silk. Then it’s wise to first seek the advice of an expert so that you’re getting value and honesty with your rug purchase.
Has your rug begun to feel harsh, or make a slight cracking or snapping sound when you pick it up to move it, or when you fold it over?
It might indicate the presence of “dry rot” in the cotton backing yarns. This slow degradation can eventually cause serious weakness in the rug’s foundation, or splitting and tearing of the rug when moved, lifted or cleaned. Your rug expert can tell if the rug has indications of latent dry rot and advise accordingly.
The pet had an “accident” on the Oriental rug and what should you do, how can you find help?
Does club soda really work on this or any other stain, and do home remedies make it worse? Even minor spillage or pet accidents, when subject to inexpert spot removal or the use of harsh and inappropriate chemicals, may turn a common stain into a permanent discoloration, unless you’re relying on the expertise of an Oriental rug cleaning professional.
An Oriental rug has a label that says “dry clean only.” Why is it there, what does it mean and how or why would somebody dry clean an Oriental rug?
Although so called “dry” rug cleaning is a safe way to clean most rugs, it may not always get the rug as clean as other methods, such as the more customary wet cleaning. And the term does not mean dry cleaning as you know it when applied to renovation of one’s clothing. Sometimes the reference to dry cleaning on a rug label is inappropriately used or deceptive. What are my choices, then, of the best methods to clean different types of Oriental rugs and rug fibers? In most cases, a professional wet cleaning is the preferred and safe method by which to clean Oriental and area rugs. But there are times—such as with silk rugs or those that might not be fully washfast, and thus at risk for dye bleeding—that modified or other specialty methods of cleaning might be considered. Trust us to know the best method to clean your particular Oriental rug.